The eye cream race: can topical skincare really turn back time?
From biomimetic growth factors to vegan PDRN alternatives and epigenetic science, brands are competing to redefine what an eye cream can actually achieve.
Three recent launches from Dermalogica, The Ordinary, and Clarins demonstrate just how quickly the category is evolving but they also raise an important question: how much of the science translates into real-world results?
Dermalogica targets density loss
Dermalogica’s new Smart Eye Density (€143) takes a different approach by focusing on one of the more overlooked aspects of eye ageing: visible loss of skin density.
Rather than simply addressing dehydration or crow’s feet, the formula is designed for hollow-looking eyes where thinning skin allows underlying blood vessels and shadowing to become more apparent.
At the heart of the formula is a growth factor complex delivered via an oleosomal (plant oil droplets) delivery system, alongside two forms of hyaluronic acid, rye seed extract, polyglutamic acid, sweet potato extract, and the naturally occurring antioxidant, CoQ10. The brand reports that the serum is clinically proven to rebuild visible undereye density by 129% after four weeks, while simultaneously improving hydration, volume and the appearance of discolouration.
From a formulation perspective, this is perhaps the most biologically ambitious of the three launches, although independent long-term studies would ultimately provide greater context around how these results compare with established in-clinic treatments. I have been using it and feel that it’s doing a great job at hydrating and brightening.
The Ordinary brings PDRN to the high street
The Ordinary continues its reputation for making trending ingredients more accessible with its Lacto-PDRN 4% + B9 Eye Cream (€10.20).
PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide) has become one of the skincare industry’s biggest talking points, particularly following its popularity in Korean aesthetic medicine. Traditionally sourced from salmon DNA, The Ordinary instead uses Lacto-PDRN, a vegan biotechnology-derived alternative.
The formula also contains vitamin B9 (folic acid), film-forming polysaccharides to provide an immediate tightening effect, and hydrating ingredients designed to smooth the delicate eye area.
The brand claims improvements including immediate tightening and reduced appearance of undereye bags, hydration increases of up to 72% within two hours, reduced appearance of fine lines and crepey texture after eight weeks, and improved firmness and elasticity with continued use. At just over €10, it is one of the most affordable eye creams to introduce biotechnology-inspired ingredients to the mass market, although consumers should remember that PDRN in topical skincare works very differently from injectable regenerative treatments.
Clarins looks to
longevity science
Clarins has taken perhaps the broadest scientific approach with its reformulated Double Serum Eye, focusing on both chronological ageing and epigenetic ageing; the latter referring to environmental and lifestyle influences that can accelerate visible ageing.
The new formula is powered by 96% natural-origin ingredients and combines 96 active ingredients.
According to Clarins, research into identical twins helped demonstrate how lifestyle factors can influence the perceived age of the eye area, inspiring the development of ingredients aimed at targeting these pathways.
The formula promises improvements, including fine lines and wrinkles, puffiness, dark circles, loss of radiance, and firmness. The inclusion of niacinamide and plant-derived caffeine also reflects ingredients with well-established cosmetic benefits, particularly for brightening and reducing the appearance of puffiness.
Each product occupies a very different position in the market. Dermalogica focuses on rebuilding visible density and supporting healthier looking skin over time, making it particularly interesting for mature skin showing volume loss. The Ordinary delivers impressive ingredient innovation at an accessible price, bringing biotechnology-based skincare into a category traditionally dominated by luxury products. Clarins combines decades of anti-ageing research with a multi-targeted formula that aims to address nearly every common concern around the eyes, while embracing the growing interest in longevity science.
As a beauty journalist, I find it encouraging that brands are moving beyond simply promising 'anti-ageing' and instead targeting specific biological changes such as density loss, barrier function and environmental ageing. That said, consumers should approach even the most sophisticated eye cream with realistic expectations. While advanced formulations can certainly improve hydration, smoothness, firmness, and overall skin quality, no topical product can replace the structural changes achieved through injectable treatments or surgical procedures where significant volume loss exists.
For many people, however, consistency remains the most powerful ingredient. Daily use of a well formulated eye product, combined with sun protection and healthy lifestyle habits, is still likely to deliver greater long-term benefits than constantly chasing the latest viral ingredient. I think we need eye creams as the skin there is delicate.
The exciting development isn’t that one eye cream has suddenly solved ageing; it’s that the science behind these formulas is becoming increasingly sophisticated, giving consumers more targeted options than ever before.