Mike McGrath and Bryan Phelan.

2 Cork maestros continue their adventures

Eight years have swiftly passed since my delightful encounter with two culinary maestros, Mike McGrath and Bryan Phelan, during an episode of my radio show, ‘The Food Hour’, on Cork City FM.

Since then, I have made sure to keep in touch and followed their careers over the years. As we celebrated this culinary ‘anniversary’ last week, I had the pleasure of catching up with these two remarkable chefs, observing that, while time may have cast its gentle touch on them, their unwavering passion for the culinary arts remains undiminished.

Mike McGrath, now helming the kitchen at Miyazaki for the past six years, has undergone a remarkable evolution from chef to head chef.

When quizzed about his background in Japanese cuisine, he chuckled and confessed: “Zero, but I was fortunate enough that Takashi Miyazaki trusted me to take me under his wing. I learned a lot from him.”

This trust was manifested visibly when Mr Miyazaki entrusted Mike with the reins as he focused on his Michelin-starred venture, Ichigo. Mike changes the menu regularly, focusing on seasonality and Japanese standards but using a lot of Irish produce.

Feedback from his boss encourages him to experiment and he admits that he is still learning but enjoying the challenges. When I asked him what his future plans are, he says that he is very happy at Miyazaki and still wants to learn a lot more.

On the other culinary front, Bryan Phelan with a stint at Rachel's under his belt, embarked on fulfilling a lifelong dream—travelling to South America for several months, exploring countries like Colombia and Peru.

“I could live in Colombia,” he exclaimed, captivated by the vibrancy of the landscape, people, and, of course, the tantalizing cuisine. Fortunately for Irish food enthusiasts, Bryan returned to open The Village Deli at the tail end of the lockdown, taking over a café at the Ravens Court Garden Centre in Kerry Pike.

“I was working in Schull at the time setting up and cooking at The Townhouse – we were working fulltime during lockdown doing take-aways.” The offer to take over the café in Kerry Pike came at a perfect time as he wanted to make his own mark.

Reflecting on his travels, Bryan noted “Yes and no” when asked if they influenced his menu. “I need to understand the local taste and cook what my guests want to eat,” he explained.

The Village Deli's menu undergoes regular transformations, and Bryan plans to introduce tapas nights for Valentine's week, providing an avenue for culinary experimentation.

With a devoted community forming around his lovingly adorned café, Bryan has secured a polytunnel at the local hydro farm allotments, growing a substantial portion of the café's produce. The farm also features a kitchen that he is renting to create products for the café – fermentation, pickling and more is on the agenda as well as cookery classes.

Inquisitive about the fate of The Sharp Knife (who used to run pop-up events), I couldn't help but inquire. To my delight, both chefs shared secretive smiles, hinting at forthcoming pop-ups this year. It was a joyous reunion, resuming the same gastronomic chats we engaged in eight years ago.

As an ardent admirer of both Mike and Bryan, I eagerly anticipate the culinary delights and future events that The Sharp Knife has in store. The journey continues, and I can't wait to witness the chapters yet to unfold.