The fascinating evolution of mince pies over the centuries
Christmas without mince pies is unheard of, at least in our home. Shops are full of mass-produced versions, some better than others and bakeries have shelves heaving from the weight.
Back in September when the first glut of apples came in, I made jars full of mincemeat, dark, sweet, spiced and succulent as Christmas should be. I never liked the shop-bought jars of mincemeat and for the last 30 years have made a batch, basing it on Delia Smith’s original recipe (which has changed over the years with adding different fruits and changing the ratio of currants to raisins and sultanas).
Despite their everyday presence, few people stop to consider just how old this festive treat is, or how dramatically it has changed over the centuries. Long before mince pies became the small, sweet tarts we know today, they began life quite differently as a practical, heavily spiced dish rooted in medieval Europe and shaped by trade, religion and changing tastes (mine in particular).
The mince pie as we know it today developed out of the savoury pies from around the 13th to the 15th centuries as cooks combined finely chopped meat with fruits, spices and liquids such as vinegar or wine. This mixture was practical as well as flavoursome with the spices and acidity helping to preserve the meat, and the dried fruit added sweetness as well as extending the shelf life of the dish.
These ingredients also reflected the expanding trade routes of the time, with spices such as cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg travelling from the Middle East and Asia into Western Europe, including Ireland.
Early versions of the mince pie were much larger than the small tarts we now know. They were often baked in oval or oblong shapes and were simply known as “minced pies” or similar terms. These pies would have been a substantial part of a meal rather than a small sweet treat.
Over the centuries, the balance of ingredients began to change. From the 16th century onwards, recipes became increasingly sweet. More dried fruit such as currants, raisins and apples was added and the amount of meat was gradually reduced. Suet remained important for richness and texture, but by the 18th and 19th centuries meat was becoming less common (although I still use suet but the commercial version).
Alcohol such as brandy, wine or stout was often added, both to enhance the flavour and to preserve the mixture, leading to the tradition of letting mincemeat mature over time in sealed jars.
Although originally not associated with Christmas, the added spices said to have been brought by the wise men in the Christian Nativity story and the pies themselves became connected with the Christmas period.
Puritans in the British Empire tried to outlaw mincepies due to its indulgence but these restrictions were short-lived. The evolution from a medieval meat-based dish to a sweet festive treat reflects changing tastes, preservation methods and traditions and we now can’t imagine Christmas without them.
Recipe
• 200g plain flour,
• 100g butter (cubed),
• 1 egg (slightly beaten),
• cold water,
• mincemeat (homemade or shop bought).
Place the flour in a bowl and rub the butter into the flour until it resembles breadcrumbs. Pour in the egg and using a knife and cutting motions, work the egg into the flour. Adding a bit of water along the way (small amounts at a time) until you feel the pastry coming together. Using your hands, form the pastry into a smooth ball. Flatten slightly and wrap in clingfilm. Leave in fridge for at least 30 mins. On a floured surface roll out the pastry, cut out circles to fit into a 12 hole shallow baking pan. Spoon in the mincemeat and cover with a disc of pastry. Brush with egg wash and place on the middle shelf of a pre-baked oven and bake at 160C until golden brown. When cooled down, sprinkle with icing sugar.