A creative afternoon tea done right
Afternoon tea in London is just special; the quiet ceremony of it, the sense of occasion, the gentle pause it creates in an otherwise busy day.
On a recent visit to London, I booked myself into Brasserie Max, tucked just beside Covent Garden, where the chef put a spin on the traditional afternoon tea. In this case, food innovation was done right.
From the moment I arrived, the atmosphere set the tone. The dining room carries an easy French elegance, understated with soft lighting and a sense of calm that makes you feel looked after. The service followed suit, polished and attentive without ever feeling intrusive, the kind that allows you to settle in and enjoy the experience at your own pace.
My waiter, Sergio had the ability to bring the menu to life. What drew me there was their cheese afternoon tea, a savoury interpretation of a tradition so often dominated by sugar and sweetness. Having experimented with my own savoury version in the past, I was curious what the chef came up with.
I have to admit, my previous attempt had one notable misstep in the form of a tomato jelly paired with onion cream which never quite won over my guests!
The menu at Brasserie Max showed exactly how creative and balanced a savoury afternoon tea can be when it is handled with care. The menu itself reads like a love letter to British cheesemaking.
It begins with a Colston Bassett Stilton éclair, paired with pickled walnuts and chives. This was a clever introduction, the richness of the blue cheese softened by the light pastry and lifted by the gentle sharpness of the walnuts. It set the tone beautifully, familiar yet inventive.
Next came a Ragstone and caramelised onion macaron, a delicate and slightly playful bite. The goat’s cheese brought a fresh, lemony brightness, while the sweetness of the onion added depth without overpowering.
The Baron Bigod was served on malt and prune loaf, offered something more indulgent. Silky and rich, with subtle mushroom notes, it felt comforting and luxurious, the sweetness of the loaf providing just enough contrast.
Alongside this, a Lincolnshire Poacher burnt cheese tart delivered a deeper, nuttier flavour. One of the highlights was the Hafod Cheddar Welsh rarebit doughnut. It was both nostalgic and inventive, crisp on the outside, soft within and with that unmistakable buttery depth of farmhouse cheddar. It struck a perfect balance between richness and lightness.
Then came the Montgomery’s Cheddar scones, served with goat’s curd, caramelised onion jam and chive oil. This was perhaps the closest nod to the traditional afternoon tea, yet even here the savoury elements felt entirely at home. Each component worked in harmony, the sharpness of the cheddar softened by the creaminess of the curd and lifted by the gentle sweetness of the onion.
To finish, a Westcombe ricotta cheesecake with poached rhubarb brought a subtle sweetness to the table. Light and fresh, it provided a gentle ending rather than a dramatic finale but nevertheless a delicious finish. The cake was light and rich at the same time and left me with a satisfying smile. I couldn’t help but admire the balance achieved here.
Creativity is essential but so is knowing when to hold back. At Brasserie Max, each dish felt considered, every flavour purposeful while nothing was trying too hard to impress. At Brasserie Max, food innovation is done right.